DIY: Block Printing Basics

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I started block printing back in high school, more than 10 years ago, and it was the basis for most of my senior art project. I loved the process; it was so simple, created such striking images, and allowed me to use such versatile supplies. I could whip out a beautiful piece in an hour. Then, I headed to university and forgot about it for years.

Digging through our basement, I found all the supplies ready and waiting for me to take it up again.

Block Printing Basics

Supplies

• Printing ink
• Linoleum cutter
• Brayer
• Linoleum block (the size of your desired print or bigger)
• Pencil and paper
• A flat washable surface at least 8” x 10” (I use the inside of the lid of a tin cookie box)
• Razor, if linoleum needs to be cut down
• Good quality card stock to print on, in a different colour than the paint

Directions

• Start by finding a design. It shouldn’t be bigger than the size of the linoleum, but it can easily be smaller. The key to a good design is simplicity. For a first time printer, a bold, geometric design is easiest. Sketch out the exact size and detail on the piece of paper. Remember that the design will be in the negative, as the place you will be carving out will not have paint and be the colour of your card stock. For a geometric design, it is not a huge concern, but for recognizable objects, the final print might not look right.
• Look at the tapir below. Since the animal is black and white, I chose to carve out the white portions and leave the black areas remaining on the linoleum, which in the final print would be black. This makes the carving process more tedious as it harder to create borders and leave positive space. It is a little tough to grasp the concept until you see the print. In my case below, I knew that I had white paper and black ink and this was the design I needed to use.

• This next design is a flower, or a kiku (chrysanthemum) to be more exact. I wanted the flower itself to be the positive portion, so I had to carve out the background and the borders, leaving the stem and petals untouched, as it was the section that would touch the paint.
• I drew the kiku as accurately as possible on the linoleum block and started carving out the background, as in the photo below.

BE VERY CAREFUL TO CARVE AWAY FROM YOURSELF AND KEEP YOUR FINGERS AWAY FROM THE BLADE. I have a prominent scar on my index finger from a deep slice I made back in high school.

• Depending on the density of the lines needed, change the size of the carver and use different amounts of pressure when carving. If you are unsure about a carve, leave it. I always run a test print before finalizing the design.
• When finished carving the areas you are sure about, it is time for the first print. On the flat washable surface (the inside of a cookie tin perhaps), squeeze a dime sized amount of paint.
• With the brayer, roll through the paint back and forth a few times until it is spread in a thin, even layer. Roll the brayer on top of the linoleum, covering the uncarved areas with ink.
• If your hands have any ink on them, wash and dry them before the next step.
• Lay a regular piece of paper (this is the test run) on top of the inked stamp. Gently rub the top of the paper with your fingers, being careful not to shift the paper or the image will not be crisp.

• Peel off the paper and check your image. If there any extra ink spots or you aren’t completely happy with the shape, wash off your stamp and dry off with an older towel.  Carve out the extra little bits.
• Roll the brayer in the ink again, and add more ink if needed. Coat the stamp with the ink.  Clean your hands again if necessary and place the card stock, good side down on top of the stamp.
• Make a few impressions since each one will be a little bit different. Allow them to dry and then choose your favourite

And there you are – a successful block printer! Test out different types of paper, like newspaper, brown paper bags, and coloured cards to find your favourites. I’d love to see what your projects look like!